Perennials, annuals, and bulbs

Right now Spring may seem a long way off, and not really on your mind. Remember the feeling you got as you went into your garden last Spring,,, and there it was... the first new growth of the new year??? Felt great, didn't it? With a little planting effort now, you will speed the timing of that first new growth by as much as a month. During the fall months, after soil temperature drops below 60°F., the bulbs of spring flowering tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, Siberian squill, dwarf irises, Anemone, and crocus should be planted. Select healthy, disease free bulbs. Add Bone meal or Bulb fertilizer into the planting hole, as you prepare the soil.

Most spring flowering bulbs should be in the ground by the early part of this month, with the exception of Tulips which may be planted up until early November.

Gladiolas, Dahlias and other tender bulbs should be dug before the ground freezes, and stored in a cool, dark area. Dahlia and Begonia tubers should be stored in a box of slightly moist peat moss. Gladiola corms can be stored in a paper bag without additional packing.

Be sure that new plantings and perennials which were divided and moved last month are kept watered if there has been insufficient rainfall.

There is still time to set out winter pansies, flowering Kale, flowering Cabbage, and fall mums. Keep a little colour in the garden for as long as possible.

Watch your thermometer on colder nights. A windless, cold, clear night usually means a killing frost.... You can keep your Chrysanthemums and Asters blooming for quite a while longer if you take the time to provide a little frost protection for them. A small, simple frame covered with cheesecloth or an old bed sheet placed over your plants on frosty nights, can add a month or more of garden blooms. (Don't forget to remove the cover as soon as the danger has passed!)

Geraniums, begonias, fuchsias, and other tender plants should be brought indoors or moved to a coldframe before the first frost.
Mulching Autumn planted perennials will keep the soil warmer longer, allowing root growth to continue, however, the plants do need time to harden off for winter. Spread a thin layer of mulch after fall planting, and then add a thicker layer once the ground has frozen.

Collect and save seeds of wildflowers to sow next spring.

Shrubs and trees Throughout the fall and winter months you can plant or transplant both evergreen and deciduous trees and shrubs. During these months of dormancy you can do your shrub and tree moving with only minimal shock to the plants. If your Rhododendrons or other shrubs have root weevils, release parasitic nematodes to soil under the affected plants. Fruits and vegetables Harvesting fruits and vegetables is the best part of growing them. As is often the case, you may have produced much more of certain type than your family can consume. Share the abundance of squash and tomatoes with friends and neighbours, and don't forget about your local food bank or second harvest organization! Although most fruits and vegetables are best when eaten fresh on the day they're picked, you can extend the season by freezing, drying, storing, or canning. Dig and divide congested clumps of rhubarb. Cut back raspberry canes that have grown too long, to prevent damage caused by winter winds. Some root crops, such as carrots, onions, and parsnips can be left in the ground in cold climates and dug up as needed. Apply enough mulch to keep the ground from freezing, and the crop will be kept fresh until it is needed. After you have finished harvesting your summer vegetables, plant a cover crop of clovers, cow peas, soybeans, or vetches for the purpose of ploughing under next spring. These nitrogen producing plants will provide good organic matter and food for your garden crops next year, as well as helping to control weeds over the winter.